Part 3 - Connecting the Signal Input Circuits

Part 2 went through how to wire the motor and battery pack to the controller. But that is only half of the process. We still have a number of other circuits to connect. Luckily we won't be required to utilize all the pigtails coming off the controller. In fact, we only need to connect 5 of the pigtails. Though I ended up using a few more, which are discussed later.

Notice the Motor and Battery Pack connections are shown on the left.
Other Low Voltage are depicted on the right.

Daymak did a nice job of labeling each pigtail and its purpose, so that makes our job easier. However, most of the connectors will have to be replaced. You can easily match the wires and use individual butt connectors, or simply solder them together. Neither option is the best in my opinion.

I would strongly suggest that you source weather proofed connectors to use. This will allow trouble free use in all types of conditions. A good source for these types of connectors is a company called Del City. You can visit their web site at www.delcity.net. I chose to use "WeatherPack" style connectors, mostly because I had back-stock of these in my garage, but there are a number of other styles that may be equally suitable. I'm sure most auto parts stores will have a similar style of connector. Regardless of style, you'll need to ensure a good, solid connection. This is especially true of the 5 Hall Effect Sensor wires.

The 5 pigtails (with brief descriptions) that you need to locate and connect are;

• Hall Sensor - Sensor is located inside the motor and the controller uses its information to determine which phase of the 3 phases to power to properly rotate the wheel.
• Power Switch - Connects to the ignition switch so that in the "On" position it turns the controller on.
• Hall Meter - Provides needed information to the instrument panel for the speedometer.
• Throttle - Provides throttle position information to the controller.
• High Brake - Connects to the two hand brakes on the handlebars, which I believe is why its labeled "High Brake" as opposed to a foot brake that other models have which I believe is called "Low Brake".

The other pigtails should be culled out from the others. I used corrugated plastic harness cover to achieve this.

Using the appropriate techniques, install the terminals, seals and connectors for each pigtail. The schematic will show what needs to be connected. A couple of small notes are appropriate here, however.

You will notice that connected to what I determined to be the main connector, (white 6 way with blue insulators) is a harness that went to the original controller. It terminates in a Black connector which plugged into the side of the original green controller. 

On my unit, I noticed that there was a bunch of electrical tape over something on the end next to the white connector. 

When I removed the tape I found capacitors and resistors connecting a few of the wires. I have yet to determine what this is for, but at some point I'll trace them down. 

The bottom-line is you won't need this harness, so just remove it from the white main connector and set it aside. 

You will need to use 2 of the wires from the main white connector, the Solid Yellow (Power Switch) and the Yellow/Green (High Brake). The others will not be used at this point.

Used 1 connector to connect 2 different circuits

The second note deals with the 3 wires that make up the throttle circuit. These three wires connect to the TPS through a unsealed white connector.

Harness coming off TPS

If you follow these wires, they run to the white main connector. This 6 inch stretch of wires will not be used. You will connect the wires from the TPS directly to the Throttle pigtail coming from the controller, matching color for color. I had to rearrange the wires to match the three wires color for color.

TPS Connected

The next pigtail to connect is the "Hall Meter", which requires the single purple wire that goes through a white connector. Again, I'd suggest using a weather protected connector for this circuit as well.

Finally, the Hall Sensor wires need to be connected. There are 5 wires that need to be connected and in our case, we need to match color for color. This isn't always true because there are no industry standards between controllers and Hall Sensors. It might be helpful to know that the Red wire is +5v dc and the Black wire is ground. The other 3 make up the signal wires coming from one of 3 hall sensors located in the motor. Making sure that these are connected properly is critical to the proper running of the Beast. In a previous post I linked the following site https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484 which does a good job explaining the details of this. However, as I mentioned all we have to do is match colors and we should be fine. Below shows a picture of my completed wiring using WeatherPack connectors discussed earlier. For info on using the Weatherpack connector, check this site out.

Finished wire connections using WeatherPack Connectors

Now that all the necessary circuits are connected, we are ready to test it. Part 4 will discuss testing the Beast to be sure it is working properly. We'll finish in Part 5 with configuring the Daymak Drive App to optimize how your Beast performs. I promise you won't be disappointed. At least I wasn't.