Part 2 - Wiring Battery Pack and Motor to the Controller

Unofficial Schematic - Bluetooth Controller to Daymak Beast

I put together this schematic diagram to help me negotiate the various wires, terminals and connectors that come out of the controller and somehow match them to the Beast's own wiring harness. This proved to be a challenge, which I hope to clarify for the next person who is attempting the same conversion.

If you have read the previous posts, you may have watched the video on YouTube on how to connect the Bluetooth Controller to an Austin SX. I watched this and assumed this was how I should connect the controller to the Beast. This was not the case. So while watching it was educational it proved to not be the way the Beast needed to be wired.

First, and foremost; I highly recommend that anytime any connections to the controller from the battery pack and motor are made, the Battery Pack be disconnected. In fact, I completely removed the battery pack from the Beast while the mounting and wiring was done so I wouldn't accidentally short anything out. I'd encourage everyone to do the same.

I would suggest that you print the schematic and follow along with the description. Let's start with the big wires, the Battery Pack and the Motor Phase wires.

First, start by connecting the 3 Phase wires. These are the Blue, Yellow, Green wires to the U, V, W terminals respectively on the controller. The terminals on these wires were too small for the bolts on the new controller. Rather than try to make them bigger, I chose to replace them with the proper size terminals. I would highly suggest that these terminals be soldered. Also, the position of the 3 wires will determine the direction of the rotation. So be sure to connect them as shown.

FYI, if you were to switch the Green and Blue wires, the motor will spin backwards. While we won't go into details on this post, there is a Hall Effect Sensor inside the motor that is needed by the controller to properly spin the tire. These wires also need to be properly matched for things to function properly. There are a number of sites that describe how to figure out the proper combinations. If you are interested, here's one such site that goes into details. I will show you in the next post how this sensor needs to be wired, so hang tight for now.

Next, connect the Battery Pack wires. Black (B-) to the B- terminal and the Red (B+) to the B+ terminal on the controller. The terminals on the battery pack wires were the correct diameter, so I didn't have to replace them.

Battery Pack wires on upper level, and 3 Phase wires on bottom

When you removed the original controller, you removed two thinner wires that were connected to the battery B- and B+ main terminals of the old controller. They are smaller gauge than the battery pack wires, and their colors are Red and Green. The Green wire needs to be reconnected along with the Black B- wire and the Red wire reconnected along with the Red B+ wire at the controller. See picture above.

Now is the time to be sure the routing of these cables are clear of the TPS, also be sure to wire tie or clamp these wires down so they won't have freedom of movement.

This takes care of the high voltage wires. On the next post we'll start into the low voltage circuits such as the Hall Effect Sensor.